27 days of fashion madness has just come to an end! I wrote a little fashion week review for you, choosing 10 best fashion shows that took place in New York, London, Milan and Paris. My selection was based upon innovativeness, originality and the whole atmosphere of the show. I highlighted ones, that has had the best ideas and followed its brand DNA. I’m really interested in your opinions so let me know!
Since 2011 Mullevay sisters haven’t change anything in location or scenography of theirs shows. They cumulate all theirs creative powers into process of making the collections. That’s why every year it’s a total blast. Rodarte girl is a one rooted into literature and fairytale dreams. She likes to read, love gothic style, and wears a lot of lace and ruffles. This year we could see something a little bit different on the runway. There weren’t as much black attitude as always, instead of that, girls were wearing white, mustard and yellow colors. The main inspiration of the collection was bee motif. Rodarte were inspired by the structure of the bee wax, that’s why they added a lot of texture to the clothes. As always they made their show a true tale like. In 2017 Rodarte girl would be a modern apiarist.
2. Victoria Beckham
When in 2009 a former Spice Girls member decided to become a designer no one believed in her success. And it turns out that even though she can’t really sing, she is a really good at designing clothes. More importantly she is becoming the best. Victoria have chosen a path of minimalism. She created beautiful but simple and classic pieces. But as she is faithful to basic colors we can’t say the same thing when it comes to textures and tailoring. She shows us that the classic pieces can have a cool twist and still look to die for. That is basically a summary of her latest collection.
3. Proenza Schouler
I watched my first Proenza Schouler show in 2013. I was obsessed with the color block, the tailoring and the style of the clothes. They were very edgy, modern and super twisted. Unfortunately I haven’t seen that esthetic on their shows for a long time. Until now. 2017 collection is like the good old ones. The same color block, oversized clothes, cool patterns and eye catching accessory – big earrings, that would be a hot trend in summer.
4. Bottega Veneta
Tomas Maier knows how to make classic desirable. I guess it’s rooted in italian DNA. 2017 collection of Bottega Veneta was full of bright, cream colors with a pinch of burgundy and grey. The most important piece of the collection was a suit. This time it was a loose, sporty one, that could easily be transferred into day or night. With this spring summer show the brand celebrated the 50 years anniversary. Mayer wanted to show that Bottega Veneta woman has no age. She can be 20 years old or 60. That’s why we saw Gigi Hadid and Lauren Hutton on the runway. Beauty is timeless so as the clothes.
But Milan is not only minimalistic, it is also the capital of avant gard, that we could see on Gucci, Mosquito or Fendi runways. It is unbelievable that this collection was designed by the same man that stands by the Chanel. But as we think about it i becomes pretty clear. When designing to Chanel, Lagerfeld sticks to brand DNA and a tradition, in Fendi he shows us his creativity. With an accompaniment of Silvia Venturini Fendi, the woman who stands behind the brand. New collection of this fashion house has a real retro vibe, much cooler than the Gucci. It is a collection directed to young girls who wants to play with patterns, colors and show a little body. Perfect for the summer!
At first I thought that Alber Elbaz leaving Lanvin after 12 years of work would be a complete disaster. Now, after we saw the new collection designed by Bouchra Jarrar we can say that this is just a new beginning for both of them. If the gossips become true, Elba will soon open his owned brand, followed by his amazing sense of fashion, but right know let me introduce you to the new Lanvin. It is very boudoir like. A lot of satin and classic pieces like white shirts and blazers. I really liked the overall atmosphere of the collection – it was bohemian and elegant and sophisticated at the same time.
7. Louis Vuitton
I love Nicolas Ghesquiere! His perfect collections for spring 2016 caused a worldwide obsession with futuristic motives. The new Louis Vuitton girls is not that cosmic as before, now she likes to wear some classic pieces, experiment with tailoring and loves metallics. The new fashion show hasn’t took place in Louis Vuitton Foundations like always, but in new flagship store at Place Vendome!
Every Valentino fashion show always had a leitmotif. Either ancient Greece, England or Rome theme. After Maria Grazia Chiuri left the brand to become head designer at Christian Dior, Pierpaolo Piccoli didn’t arrange the collection upon one motive. He let the clothes be the most important part. Valentino show for upcoming spring became one of the most highlighted during this season. I guess it’s due to the romantic, colorful and subtle dresses – the iconic piece of Valentino style. Most importantly Pierpaolo Piccoli designed the must have of the season – micro bag! After all he proved that he doesn’t need his other half anymore.
When I saw the iconic Yves Klein motives at the dresses during the Celine show I was breathless. I love seeing how designers are inspired by art. And that fashion show was a great art history lesson. In the 60 ties in France Yves Klein established one of the most important movements – Nouveau Realisme. One of his greatest works was a performance titled “Anthropometry” during which one naked women covered in blue paint stamped theirs bodies on white canvas. You can see the result at the last photo. Phoebe Philo collection for Celine showed us that this spring in fashion will be oversized blazers (borrowed from your boyfriend closet), big earrings and huge shopping bags.
10. Acne Studios
Acne Studios is probably one of the most wearable brands in street style. The scandinavian minimalism is really valued by the customers all around the world – every girls wants to receive famous pink box, ideally with the cashmere sweater or wool scarf. This time Acne Studios fashion show wasn’t that minimalistic. We could see a lot of colors and layers that announced ethnic style. The collection was inspired by arabian souks, full of colorful textiles, scarfs or leather shoes. Really Aladin like. It seems that during this spring Middle East culture would be on trend.
Until next time!